Improvement in turned shoes



UNITED STATES PATENT FFIGE WILLIAM DUUHEHIN, OF'BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS,ASSIGNOR TO WILLlA M DUGHEMIN, TRUSTEE, OF SAME PLAGE.

IMPROVEMENT IN TURNED SHOES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 140,258, dated June 24,1873; application filed May 10, 1873.

To all who-m it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM DUCHEMIN, of Boston, in the county ofSuffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and usefulImprovement in Turned Shoes, of which the following is a full, clear,and exact description thereof, reference being had to the annexeddrawingforming part of this specification, in which- Figure l representsa plan view of the upper side of the sole, the shoe having been turnedinside outwards, showing my improvement in part. Fig. 2 illustrates atransverse section of a portion of the same, exhibiting the channel ofand mode of sewing sole to the upper and welt of shoe. Fig. 3 is asimilar view of the ordinary shoe in its properly-turned position.

Corresponding parts in the figures a-re designated by like letters ofreference.

This invention consists in channeling the soles of turned shoes from thegrain or outside, the overlapping lip or piece thus formed being made tooccupy a position between the outer edge of the sole and its center; andin sewing the sole, upper, and welt together at an angle, say aboutforty-five degrees, substantially as hereinafter more fully set forth.

',To enable others to make and use my invention I will proceed t0describe it..

The sole A of the shoe is channeled from the grain or outside, so as tocause the overlapping lip a thus formed to rest between the outer edgeand the center of the sole. The upper or flesh side of this sole ischamfered upon its extreme edge. Itis now placed in position on thelast, and the upper B fastened thereto by a series of tacks, or othersuitable means, as shown in Fig. 1, in such a manner that the shoe, asfar as thus completed, can be removed therefrom for sewing. Remove thesame and adj ust the said sole and upper in the desired manner to themachine, the band or welt being placed in position during the process ofsewing by a mechanical device attached to the sewing-machine for thatpurpose; and the arm upon which the shoe rests while being operated uponis so shaped that the shoe is sewed angularly ontward about forty-fivedegrees, as seen at a', Fig. 2. These devices, being subject matter fora separate and distinct patent, will not be further described here. Whenthe shoe is sewed it is removed from the machine and turned, the channelcemented, and then iinished in the usual manner. y

This channel is distinguished from, and pos sesses advantages over, theordinary one, shown in Fig. 3, in that it is cut on the grain or outsidein a manner to leave a lip, with its overlapping edge or surfacedirected towards the center of the sole, by means of which the arm abovementioned as holding the shoe is guided during the process of sewing,the edge of the sole allowed to possess the required thickness, toovercome the premature wearing out of the same, and the seam of thesewing removed, or isolated from the outer edge or surface of the sole,rendering the shoe more durable, Src., but, on the contrary, the old wayconsists in cutting away the outer edge ofthe sole where the most wearcomes, and the channel, by reason of the depth required for the sewing,cuts deep into the sole, thus reducing its strength where it is mostneeded.

The continuous welt or band C, directly over and at the eXtreme edge ofthe upper, has two distinct functions 5 it strengthens and keeps thesole in shape, and, in consequnce of its being located over the upper,the said upper is secured to the sole in the same manner as ininner-sole shoes-that is,`between the continuous welt C and sole A-saidwelt pen forming all the functions of an inner-sole, thus making aturned shoe with all the advantages of an innersole, minus the cost, andwithout the stiffness of that class of shoes.

By sewing the shoe angularly about fortyflve degrees the holes of thethread are thrown out of a perpendicular line, by which, as the solewears away, it, the latter, continues to maintain its compactness,whereby the sole is strengthened until completely worn out.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure byLetters Patent, is-

l. A turned shoe, having its sole channeled on the lower or grain side,the overlapping surface of its lip being directed towards the center ofthe sole, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

2. The mode of sewing turned shoes, oonsubstantially as and for thepurpose specified. sisting in uniting the sole, upper, and welt Intestimony whereof I have hereunto together by stitches, passing throughangusigned my name this 9th day of May, 1873, larly to the surface ofthe sole, substantially in presence of two subscribing witnesses.

as and for the purpose set forth.

3. As e new article of manufacture, a turned shoe having its solechanneled on the lower Witnesses: or grain side and seWed singularly,and oom- J. P. BERTHRONG, posed of the sole A, upper B, and welt C, J.W. MISTER.

WILLM. DUCHEMIN.

